2018 Domaine de la Grand Cour Chapelle des Bois Fleurie Beaujolais

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Incorrectly perhaps, Fleurie’s wines are often stereotyped as light and floral. Carrying on from his father Jean-Louis, Justin Dutraive’s wines are not just silky, pure fruited fun. There’s a serious structure and brackish, earthy charm about them.

Graceful, perhaps, but with unexpected depth and rigour, that demands your attention and a suitably paired dish of braised meat.