2013 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée
~ Commanding and Complex Burgundy
2013 was a Burgundy vintage where knowing your producer came into sharper focus. Anyone fashions good wine in fair weather, but tricky years where hail, rain and cool conditions affect the season, is where the great shine.
Emmanuel Rouget was protégé to the late icon of Vosne, Henri Jayer, when he apprenticed his nephew back in 1976. No longer the youthful heir, Emmanuel’s sons Nicholas and Guillaume now also contribute.
Significant new oak usage is common and typically in his Vosne might be 50%. But 2013 saw this sensitively backed off to just 20%.
He has remained faithful to his uncle’s teachings, keeping yields extremely low, de-stemming and cold soaking fruit. This has a density to the fruit and chewy tannin extract, in part due to the long slow ripening season.
Steady demand for Burgundy and the weight of approachable fruit in the 15s, meant that wines like the 13s and even 14s were to some extent overlooked. Their lovely, sturdy tannins and a salty, dark red fruit presence are opening nicely, and will reward further patience.
An exciting balance of fruit and structure…luscious, red-fruited wines where the oak is matched in intensity to the the depth and staining nature of the fruit. Incredibly complex.